Specialty chocolate soars: it seems nearly everyone wants a piece of the specialty chocolate boom. In the first of a two-part series, CandyBUSINESS examines the latest developments.(MARKET ANALYSIS)

LET'S CUT TO THE CHASE--specialty chocolate is all about great taste, increasingly sophisticated consumer palates and the art of the master chocolatier.

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Or maybe it is about social consciousness and personal commitments to what might be seen as more healthful eating habits, all wrapped up in consumers' growing acceptance of the idea that, within limits, personal indulgence is a good thing.

Or, as John Haugh, president of the gourmet chocolate and retail division, Mars, Inc., tells CandyBUSINESS: "There really isn't a definition of specialty chocolate, just as there is no definition of a truffle. We think of a truffle as a round ball with a ganache center, but truffles can practically be anything. We see specialty as higher end, more expensive, hand-crafted product with a shorter shelf life and more unique recipes and flavors."

Most likely the gourmet specialty market is all those things, with a few more influences sprinkled liberally on top. For example, toney chocolate cafes and lounges are springing up in metropolitan areas across the U.S. Taking their cues from Starbuck's runaway success, venues such as New York's Chocolate Bar and Mars' new Ethel's Chocolate lounges are tempting consumers' indulgent streaks with comfortable surroundings and chocolate selections to linger over.

A growing number of chocolate makers, as well as celebrity chefs, are also making their presence known as their names and talents are spread by the consumer press and as national cable cooking shows extend specialty chocolate's message. This is all great news for a market The Hershey Co. recently valued at $1.7 billion. …